![]() ![]() Once your happy, off to the range to test fire. Since you have all new sear and hammer notches, you are likely to be 100% succesfull on the first try. Mount the modified 336 hammer with a brand new sear in the Old Glenfield, assemble and work it a bunch, hard, soft, fast, slow, half cock, full cock, just make sure it functions the way it's supposed to with zero tolerance for failure. Placing both hammers on the same pin from time to time will show you the obvious points where metal removal is needed. Break out your files or Dremel with stones and carefully contour the 336 hammer to match the inside profile of the old Glenfield hammer. The receiver clearance cut is C shaped on the Glenfield and more S shaped ont the 336 hammer. If you compare the 336 hammer to the Glenfield hammer you'll note further differences. Cut and try untill you have the thickness right but stay off the pivot point and sear notches. 300" thickness, it should slip right into the receiver cut out and also into the notch in the rear of the Glenfield bolt. So, carefully take equal amounts of metal off both sides of the new 336 hammer. The 336 hammer is much thicker above the pivot pin and can be filed or ground (grind slow and cool to prevent tempering) to the same thickness as the Glenfield hammer you are replacing. The half and full cock notches are the same too. ![]() 280", so the fit in the lower tang is fine. Hammers for both rifles have a base thickness at the pivot pin/sear notches of about. The new style Marlin hammer is very similar and thankfully, larger in the right areas to allow modification for use in a Glenfield. ![]() Naturally you can try to locate a Glenfield part in good shape but if that dosn't pan out. ![]() If you have a Glenfield in need of a new hammer or sear, due either to age/use or a strangers file there are options to get it back in shooting condition. ![]()
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